Zărneşti, Făgăraş and Sibiu

Walk from Măgura to Zărneşti

As usual I woke up early to make some photographs before the sun gets to high on the sky. Unfortunately, after the heavy rain of yesterday, clouds were blocking all the views here in this pretty town of Măgura. A quick look on the weather forecast told me it would remain cloudy today. A pitty but I don’t think it would be worth spending another day in the mountains with cloudy and rainy weather.

The orange is where I slept last night. A recently built guest house in Magura.

I did hope to get to see at least something of this town while walking towards Zărneşti. It’s not a hard walk, as it only goes down but also not very pleasant as it’s a little monotone. Once down the valley, the road follows the river until Zărneşti.

There is a great place along this river where you can pitch your tent before heading into Piatra Craiului National Park. See location on google street view here. From this camping area you can hike to Cabana Curmătura in 2.30h according to a sign along the road.


Finally I arrived at the first houses of Zărnești. Looking at the mountains behind me, I conclude it wasn’t a bad idea to get out from there as all I would see there would be clouds and probably rain.

Zărnești, Transylvania, Romania.
The road in Zărnești.

I walked through the entire town and beyond as I wanted to reach the next big intersection where a road goes west towards Făgăraş. According to Bradt guide book it should be one of the most scenic routes in Transylvania.

A young boy on the back of a horse carriage in Zărnești in Transylvania in Romania
Horse carriage in Zărnești
A train near Zărnești with the mountains of Piatra Craiului National Park in the background in Transylvania in Romania.
A train near Zărnești with the mountains of Piatra Craiului National Park in the background.

I had a feeling I was walking way too much without any real benefit. I wouldn’t recommend to hike down from Măgura to Zărnești just by following the main road. It’s probably better to arrange a pickup from Măgura or make it a true hike through the mountains.  Maybe there are possibilities to hike from Măgura to Cabana Curmătura. And the next day the hut to Zărnești.

Anyway, once on the road to Făgăraş, I was quickly picked up by a friendly couple and their dog. They dropped me in the next village where an older man picked me up with his van. He was very enthusiast and talking a lot although I couldn’t understand most of it. He was the only driver during my ten days in Transylvania who asked money at the end of the ride. He asked 100LEI but when I gave him 20LEI  (4 euro) he seemed already more than happy. Not a bad price to drive 50km from a remote area.


The main highlight in Făgăraş is without doubt the medieval fortress in the center of the city. You can’t really miss as it’s located just next to the main road going through the entire  town. Although you might be distracted at first by the big cathedral of St. John the Baptist that’s standing in between the road and the medieval castle.

The medieval castle in Făgăraş in Transylvania in Romania.
The medieval castle in Făgăraş.

I took a train from Făgăraş at 2.21pm arriving in Sibiu at 3.55pm for 27.5LEI.


From the train station in Sibiu, it’s just a smal walk to the city center.  I had just enough time to make a very quick walk through the city center before it started raining again.

Sibiu transylvania romania
The 'Bridge of Lies' in Sibiu. Transylvania, Romania.
The ‘Bridge of Lies’ in Sibiu.

I didn’t book any accomodation yet where I could find cover for the rain so I went for a coffee instead in Luz Caffé (Piața Mare 11). It’s a very small cafe with wonderful lighting at  the ceiling. The price of an Irish Coffee here is just a little higher than the price of a cappucino. Just saying… I had a cappucino!

I used the wifi to send a few couchsurfing requests.  Before my coffee was empty I got one negative and one positive response. When solo travelling in a foreign country, it’s always great to have people to talk with. It was also my first couchsurfing experience staying with a family with three kids.  So it promised to be a very interesting experience.

We actually went all together to a cottage of a good friend of my host where we got to know each other and had a dinner before we went to sleep. Outside it was still raining, but tomorrow it should be over.

Travelling is just a never ending cascade of future memories.