Alaverdi and Tusheti

Telavi. I didn’t slept so good tonight. The temperature stays high even at night in the capital city of Kacheti. Of course I’m not complaining. You can’t expect and air conditioner for this price! Before I headed to Teo for breakfast, I said goodbye to my host and her grandson.

I enjoyed a Georgian breakfast at the house of Teo. A little later my transport had arrived and it was to say goodbye to Teo as well.

Before we headed in the mountains, we first made a stop at the beautiful monastery of Alaverdi.

I read the road to Tusheti is one of the most dangerous roads of the world. It’s only accessible for three months a year and is often damaged by landslides. I was happy I didn’t had to drive myself. I had all the time to look around. You getting stunning views from outside the car window. One side of the car is often driving at the border of the precipice.

Maybe it was because I was in a huge car, but it wasn’t so bad after all. However, I was still happy I could touch solid ground when we arrived in Omalo. Arriving in Omalo feels like you’ve been time traveling. The horse is the transport of choice for locals, no electricity nor running water. At least not drinkable. There one thing that will hopefully remain timeless. The beautiful view on the Tusheti mountains!

It turned out my driver, Leo, was building a guesthouse in lower Omalo. They only needed one more week to finish ‘The Green House’. There will be a restaurant, cafe, camping site and a few rooms for visitors. I was offered to stay at one of the rooms but I chose for a place in the garden to pitch my tent.

When I finished setting up the tent, I was suggested to go climb up the hill to Upper Omalo and the even higher Keselo fortress.

When I returned, the workers had finished working for today. They started playing panduri (three stringed lute) and even sang songs all together.
It was an amazing atmosphere. You almost forget you’re just traveling here. You feel home in a second.

Whent it got dark and cold, we moved inside where candles provide the only light. The girls had prepared food. Sometimes I wondered how they could prepare such good food with only a little light available.